It’s 2025, and the beauty world – a $571 billion industry – is buzzing with contradictions. On one hand, “natural beauty” is regarded as the highest ideal. On the other, social media feeds are overflowing with Botox “pre – juvenation” diaries, “Ozempic face” remedies, and extreme fitness challenges such as the infamous “75 Hard”. While these trends are frequently framed as tools of empowerment, they also raise an uncomfortable question: are we embracing them for our own benefit, or are we still striving to match a constantly changing set of societal expectations?

THE “SKINNY” RESURGENCE: A DANGEROUS BLAST FROM THE PAST

In the fashion and beauty industries, we’re witnessing what Chioma Nnadi aptly described as the pendulum swinging back to “supermodel skinny.” The runways are dominated by ‘size-zero’ silhouettes reminiscent of the early 2000s, an era infamous for glorifying unrealistic thinness. “We don’t want body types to be treated like trends,” Nnadi told the BBC, yet the fashion and beauty industry seems to be doing just that.

This trend, combined with the extortionate growth of weight-loss medicines such as Ozempic, has increased “aspirational” body ideals that feel anything but empowering. Sure, some call these injections “body autonomy,” but how autonomous is a decision influenced by a society that benefits from insecurity?

75 HARD: BUILDING RESILIENCE OR BURNING OUT?

75 Hard is an ambitious 75-day fitness challenge created by Andy Frisella, an author and podcaster. The regime requires two daily workouts, a restricted diet, gallon-sized water intake, and progress images. Frisella promotes it as a “mental toughness” procedure, yet the conversation surrounding it is very similar to toxic diet culture.

Critics suggest that ‘75 Hard’ promotes an unsustainable “all-or-nothing” mindset. Counting every calorie for the sake of a trend, rather than genuine well-being, increases the likelihood of people developing unhealthy interactions with food and exercise. Over time, the pressure can lead to burnout – or worse, resentment of any exercise whatsoever.

In contrast, alternatives such as ‘75 Soft’ have emerged as a more practical approach. These modified versions emphasise balance by allowing for rest days, flexible eating habits, and a focus on long-term wellness rather than strict discipline. For some, 75 Soft provides the structure required to develop positive habits without the intense pressure.  <

This demonstrates that programs like this can be beneficial, but only when targeted to specific needs and health goals.

If the goal is to live a healthier, more disciplined life, isn’t it better to make small, sustainable changes? Investing energy in healthy habits, such as walking more, eating thoughtfully, or prioritising rest, is more likely to generate long-term well-being than a restricting sprint to an imaginary finish line.

EUROCENTRIC BEAUTY STANDARDS

While “natural beauty” is a current popular trend, it frequently refers to a specific type of beauty: flawless, slender, and effortlessly symmetrical. Eurocentric beauty norms remain the foundation of what is deemed “ideal,” quietly rejecting individuals who do not fit the mold. Even the popularity of Fillers and Botox is geared towards reinforcing these ideals, from raised brows to smaller noses and “snatched” jawlines.

On the other hand, these treatments might be viewed as tools for self-expression and empowerment. Fillers and Botox can help some people gain confidence and integrate their outward appearance with their inner selves.

Advancements in non-invasive techniques have also made these alternatives more accessible and customisable, allowing people to make small modifications without fear of society’s judgment.

BREAKING THE CYCLE: TOWARDS A SUSTAINABLE CONFIDENCE

How can we break free? First, we need to call out trends that pose as empowerment but perpetuate harm. From 75 Hard’s unsustainable grind to the “skinny is back” narrative, we must consider who benefits and at what cost. Second, while cosmetic work can enhance self-esteem, it’s important to approach it thoughtfully. Opting for routines or procedures that align with personal values, rather than fluctuating trends, is key to maintaining confidence without burnout. Third, let us reject the idea that beauty equals worth. Instead of chasing ideals, concentrate on habits that genuinely improve well-being. Small actions – like practising gratitude or spending time in nature- can boost self-esteem without costing anything.

Let us finally celebrate the numerous forms of beauty. A more inclusive future will be achieved by amplifying neglected voices and appreciating unique features. True empowerment is found in the ability to choose – not out of obligation, but out of true desire. It is time to redefine beauty – on our terms.

The growth we have seen in the sustainable beauty industry has been promising; however, there is still a long way to go before reaching that idyllic world where there is a wide variety of options for every budget and where all brands and products are fully transparent about their ingredients and values. This article highlights what is important when choosing your beauty products.

PRICING

 

One of the biggest hurdles many contend with when making the switch to sustainable beauty is sticker shock. However, while sustainable beauty products do tend to skew towards the luxury market, this is not always the case, especially as the industry continues to expand and reach new demographics. Sarah Biggers-Stewart, founder and CEO of CLOVE + HALLOW, explains the challenge she faces as a conscious beauty brand owner: “I am a big advocate of making ethical, conscious beauty choices accessible to everyone by offering them at a fair price point, but beauty is an expensive industry. It’s a constant battle between pricing as low as possible and realising you’ve priced so low that you can’t provide a solid customer experience in today’s retail/e-commerce landscape.” 

Not only is pricing about ingredient sourcing and availability alone, but also the research and development that goes into choosing ingredients, and then on top of that creating educational resources and support systems to communicate these choices to customers. For CLOVE + HALLOW, who use a balance of natural and synthetic raw materials to create high performance, safe, eco-conscious formulas, Biggers-Stewart acknowledges that the approach “requires a lot of education around why we use synthetics.”

Despite holding themselves to a very high product and customer experience standard, CLOVE + HALLOW’s pricing is impressively reasonable. Our hope is that as the conscious beauty industry continues to grow, more brands will be just as considerate in the accessibility of their price ranges so that value-driven products can be an option for anyone.

As we look towards the future of sustainable beauty pricing, it can also be helpful to consider the past. Nicoline Wöhrle, Global Head of Communications of WALA Heilmittel GmbH (for heritage organic cosmetics and skincare brand, Dr. Hauschka), explains that when the brand was founded in 1967 it was actually “working against the trend, focusing on people and nature in an era dedicated to chemistry and technical solutions.” Ever since then, it has been fine-tuning the balance between growth and security of the company with the limits of our planet, much like how contemporary brands such as CLOVE + HALLOW have also described. Wöhrle explains Dr. Hauschka’s ultimate stance on this issue: “It is well known that the fixation on profit is responsible for the damage to the environment as well as the exploitation of millions of people worldwide. We plead for an economy that says goodbye to the idea of competition and develops a meaningful togetherness, a culture of encounter.” The company does this by operating independently of individual and market interests. By focusing solely on what the planet is able to safely provide rather than the profits it is able to churn, the Dr. Hauschka brand retains its integrity while also creating exquisite products, a balance that its customers truly value. 

GREENWASHING IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY

For beauty brands, the demands of sustainability can range from ingredient sourcing to packaging innovation, ethical production to niche formulation. With so much to convey to consumers, it is unfortunately not surprising that some of the best and well-intentioned products can be overlooked among a sea of greenwashing alternatives. “The problem remains that conventional and nature-inspired products may make claims (for instance, ‘made with rose oil’) or use images, iconography and other forms of marketing to draw attention to a limited number of natural ingredients in a product, rather than providing guarantees about the product as a whole,” says Ana Ledesma, communications officer for NATRUE. Since 2008, the NATRUE Label has been used to certify over 7,000 cosmetic products from over 300 different brands worldwide based on its strict definition of what constitutes truly natural and organic products, and perhaps even more importantly, brands as a whole: “The NATRUE Label can only be granted to a cosmetic product if at least 75% of the products of the same brand or sub-brand also undergo certification to obtain the NATRUE seal. This rule prevents brands from marketing one or two ‘hero products’ as NATRUE-certified cosmetics while keeping the rest of the line conventionally-formulated.”

Much like this difficulty in controlling what passes for being “eco-friendly,” “green” or “natural,” regulations regarding animal cruelty claims are also unfortunately poorly regulated. Kim Paschen, program manager at Leaping Bunny, explains: “Companies can essentially make any claim they wish about animal testing without having to substantiate it. That also means they are able to put their own cruelty-free logo on their packaging.” Leaping Bunny is one of the most recognised third-party certifiers of cruelty-free cosmetics within the industry and they see it as their duty to connect compassionate shoppers to companies that share their animal rights values. 

Ledesma and Paschen agree that claims verification is one of the biggest challenges of the sustainable beauty movement, and this is why they are so passionate about third-party certifications. With seals like NATRUE and Leaping Bunny, identifying products and brands that align with your conscious values is made infinitely easier. In fact, it would be impossible for individual consumers to research and audit product claims as thoroughly and completely as these labels do, so until there is better regulation of sustainability claims within the beauty industry, certifying bodies are an essential tool in the fight against greenwashing.

+ Words:
Dorice Lee
Luxiders Contributor

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© Unsplash

This article was published at Luxiders Print Issue 8. Buy the digital magazine here.

But while many people have hopped on the trend citing digital eyestrain, disrupted sleep cycle, and/or eye health concerns as the reason(s) behind their specs, far fewer people have looked into—or even heard about—the effects that blue light can have on our skin.

It seems obvious now, but when sitting in front of screens all day, it’s not just our eyes that are exposed to the light coming from our devices—it’s our entire face. This is why in the past year, entire skincare brands devoted to blue light protection have been founded, and why more and more products are listing blue light protection as a benefit. But are these products necessary? Or are they like what their eyewear counterparts are now being claimed to be: just another a fad created by the marketing machine?

WHAT IS BLUE LIGHT AND HOW DOES IT AFFECT YOUR SKIN?

Blue light is the highest-energy part of the visible light spectrum and is therefore the closest to the ultraviolet (UV) light spectrum. We’ve been aware of the negative effects of UV light, like skin cancer and skin aging, for ages, which is of course why dermatologists constantly recommend including a sunscreen in your daily skincare routine, rain or shine. And although blue light is not known to cause skin cancer, there is scientific evidence that suggests that it contributes to skin aging. “It does this by generating reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the skin,” says Kenneth Howe, a dermatologist in New York City. “These ROS, or free radicals, in turn, cause oxidative damage within the skin.” This oxidative damage can ultimately lead to the loss of collagen and elastic fibres, resulting in a reduction of elasticity and the development of fine wrinkles. Some studies have also linked skin’s blue light exposure to pigmentation changes.

Before you start thinking about wearing a face shield while you scroll from now on, it is important to consider not only the overall potential effects of blue light exposure on our skin, but also the strength of the source of that exposure, because these effects are dose-dependent. While many of us do spend countless hours on screens these days which contributes to our cumulative exposure over a long period of time, the intensity of blue light emitted from devices is much less than that of the sun, which, if you go outside at all, is by far the main source of blue light in our lives. Some reports have shown that “eight hours of screen time can be equivalent to 20 minutes of sun exposure.” While the exposure from screens is certainly significant, especially as many people are on computers for work day in and day out, it bears repeating that the sun is a far more potent source of these wavelengths of light and should not be forgotten. 

WHAT CAN YOU DO ABOUT IT?

Research into blue light and how it affects the various parts of our bodies has come a long way, but of course there is always more to learn. We anticipate that legislation governing blue light protection will continue to change in the upcoming years, but for now it seems clear that there is at least a link between exposure and skin aging. While we don’t believe you need to devote a whole portion of your skincare routine to blue light protection, here are three easy steps you can take to help you in the battle against your skin’s newest antagonist.

1. Engage your device’s night mode.

Sometimes called night shift or night light, this setting will reduce the blue light emittance from your computer, tablet or phone screen. It will typically allow you to set the hours you want it to be activated, which would usually be after sunset until sunrise, as exposure to blue light during the day is actually beneficial to our sleep-wake cycle. If you’re after maximum skin protection, you can consider leaving night mode on at all times (but adjust accordingly if your sleep rhythm is affected), or you can elect to keep your screen brightness on the lower end overall, which reduces all light emissions, including blue light, but not as much as night mode would.

2. Use a physical sunscreen.

As odd as it may seem to use sunscreen even when you plan to stay indoors all day, the effects of blue light mean that there is more reason than ever to incorporate this skincare essential into your routine. More specifically though, a physical (or sometimes referred to as mineral) rather than chemical sunscreen is the key here. The most common active ingredients in physical sunscreens are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which Howe explains will “work by reflecting light—whether it’s UV radiation or visible light,” so that it is not able to penetrate the skin. In contrast, chemical sunscreens are only targeted to protect the skin from UV rays and have no regulated efficacy against visible light.

3. Introduce antioxidants into your skincare routine.

Antioxidants are the answer to the problem of blue light-generated ROS as they will neutralise them before any damage can be done to your skin. Although device optimisation and sunscreen application are excellent defensive strategies to keep your face well-protected, an antioxidant-rich skincare product will be your go-to offensive tactic to save your skin from any errant rays that manage to slip through. Antioxidants have been star anti-aging skincare ingredients for years, and there is no need for these to be blue light-specific.

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@ Unsplash

+ Words:
Dorice Lee
Luxiders Magazine Contributor

The growth of the beauty industry has led to a better understanding of people’s actual needs. Where once there were only products for one hair type and care, now there are lines for every hair and treatment. For the textured haired people out there, the natural hair movement and the curly girl method have been a turning point in how they take care of their hair. But it wasn’t always that way.

We all remember the famous Princess Diary makeover, when Mia Thermopolis goes from being one of the nerdy kids in school to a beauty queen. They just changed the way she styled her hair, straightening it and took off her glasses. The straight hair represented the new Mia, the beautiful and popular one, whereas the curly one embodied her past – non so popular – self. Despite this may not have had a huge impact on people with non – textured hair, those with it saw what having texture meant.

This was worse for people of colour. Ideals rooted in Eurocentrism influenced how the perfect hair, smooth and straightened, looked since the late 1800s. The hot comb was one of the first products sold to change the texture of the hair. In the 20^th century there was a boom in hair texture altering products. It wasn’t until the 60s that the natural hair movement became relevant encouraging people to set their curls free.

INFLUENCES OF MEDIA AND FASHION

Media has always played an important part on how we see the world. The communication theorist George Gerbner proposed “The cultivation theory” as one of the core concepts of media effects. According to it, people who watch television regularly are more likely to be influenced by the messages and ideas from the TV world. Thus, their perception of the world starts reflecting what they see or hear constantly in the media.

The problem is that media generally presents an image of the world that doesn’t actually reflect reality. In a world with constant over – stimulation is easy to make people form a fixed image of various groups regarding social and cultural dynamics. Hair is one of them. For decades now, afro, curls, braids and natural hairstyles were seen as messy.

As the activist Ella Turenne explained TZR in an interview:

The well – known series Scandal, presents an unrealistic image of Olivia Pope’s hair. She always wears it straightened and never has frizz, even though she goes to sleep without protecting it. This is just an example of how reality goes unnoticed and changed according to certain beauty standards.

As far as the fashion world is concerned, we see there are great similarities in the beauty canons. The lack of curly hair on the runway was normalized and models with coyly or kinky textures could be counted on one hand. Those who did have it, had to deal with stylists who weren’t trained to handle their tresses. Sometimes, even categorizing it not as versatile as straight hair.

BOUNCE BACK

The acceptance of natural hairstyles started to be reflected in the second half of the 2010’s. However, the fashion industry seems to be taking it slower than media. In our last issue, Luxiders talked to the protagonist of the beauty editorial: Sorry, A letter to the black community. The model Nyawargak Gatluak spoke about how stylists still struggle when working with curls and coils. She highlighted how they often feel it’s difficult to shine when their hair is treated poorly.

Beauty and style icon Zendaya Coleman has walked the red carpet with several different textured hairstyles. In 2015 she wore long dreadlocks to the Oscar ceremony and the backlash started. E! correspondent Giuliana Rancic said she felt Zendaya’s hair smelled like patchouli oil or weed. Despite Rancic apologized, this is just one more sign of the ongoing stigma.

In the media industry, however, the natural representation is growing faster. The ABC series How to Get Away With Murder showed Annalise Keating wearing wigs. She saw herself as more put together with them. Nevertheless, in the series finale she decides to go to trial showing her actual hair because it’s what truly represents her.

This Is Us shows Beth and her daughters with diverse hairstyles, always embracing their natural selves and being proud of it. Braids, curls, dreadlocks… a long list follows. They also portray the going to bed moment wrapping their hair in headscarves in order to protect it from getting messy and frizzy.

Curls are here to stay. With the conversation about the natural hair movement and the curly girl method on the rise, key players such as media and fashion will keep introducing diverse hairstyles on their shows. This being the first step towards a change in cultural standards of beauty.

Highlight Image:
@ Shingi Rice via Unsplash

+ Words:
Ana Briones
Luxiders Magazine

Climate change is a big issue, and we address it in many aspects of our life, from measuring our carbon footprint, to recycling and being as zero-waste as possible in our daily lives. But what we may not consider, is that our sex life many times is not very sustainable.

The global Sexual Wellness Market is expected to reach 125.1 billion dollars by 2026. The industry is huge, but is mainly made out of plastic-based products. From non eco- friendly condoms, to battery operated sex toys, all the way to the sheets we buy and the porn sites we browse. If like us, you are trying to lead a more sustainable life, here are some tips to take sustainability to your bed. 

CONDOMS

Condoms are the most used product during sex, but the majority of them are made of non-recyclable latex and contain casein, an animal protein added to make them softer. Even though they can not be recycled, they are still better than having an unwanted child or an unwanted sexually transmitted disease. So, when picking what condom to buy, you might want to look for the most sustainable alternative. There are condoms in the market made out of fair-trade rubber, and with recyclable paper packaging. Just take some extra time to look for the best option that suits your sustainable goals!

The most important thing when using condoms is that, even though they are not recyclable, latex is made out of rubber,  a natural material, so technically they are degradable. Just make sure of wrapping them in paper and putting them in the trash for disposal. There are no studies made yet to tell how long it takes for condoms to degrade, so do not flush them down the toilet. 

LUBRICANTS

The global value of personal use of lubricants was estimated at 894 million dollars in 2018, and a research shows that is projected to grow at a pace of 8.1% per year until 2026. Lubricants have become a popular sexual wellness product, but many of the options in the market are based of petroleum and full of chemicals, which can lead to water waste and oil spills. The first step for us would be to pick non-petroleum based lubricants, and go fo the sustainable choices. There are natural options such as aloe-vera, coconut oil and agar-agar; but keep in mind that oil-based lubricants can break latex based condoms. Luckily for us, there are many sustainable companies that produce eco-friendly lubricants alternatives.  

Eco-friendly lubricants are often water-based, and unlike the regular ones you can find in the market they are organic and produce as less waste as possible. In contraposition with the natural options that are oil-based, water-based lubricants do not interfere with the latex from the condoms.

SEX TOYS CAN ALSO BE SUSTAINABLE 

The first step to take when choosing your next sex toy will be to check how it is powered: always try to invest in a rechargeable device, but if it is battery operated, switch to rechargeable batteries. Keep in mind the material it is made of too, there are plenty of eco-friendly options, from bioplastic, polished wood, glass, ceramic and steel are some of them. Plastic-free sex toys have been around for thousands of years, maybe it is time that we reignite that candle to help save the environment.

LINGERIE

Choosing lingerie is a very important and many times hard task to overcome. But, much like our fashion choices, we can try and go for the sustainable options. In this article, we have summoned up some great and sexy sustainable options for you. As well as lingerie, you might want to choose sustainable bed sheets, there are plenty of options in the market. 

ADDRESSING THE PORN INDUSTRY

We have all seen the news in the past, many of the wide spread best known porn sites have faced sues over human trafficking in the last couple of years. Finding ethical and legitimate content is hard to find online, but there are some websites, like XConfessions that provide films, behind the scenes and interviews with the actors at a reasonable cost; or Bellesa, a self described feminist porn site that offers ethical free porn. Finding ethical content, that does not involve the suffering of others can be quite problematic, but it is out there. 

Now you know, and whether you choose to start by buying sustainable condoms, eco-friendly sex toys or lubricants, or by redirecting your searches for ethical content, every steps matter. To take sustainability to your bed in a more comfortable manner, start by picking the issues that are more important to you personally, to achieve a more lasting compromise with sustainability.

Highlight Image:
@ Shingi Rice via Unsplash

+ Words:
Leila Salinas
Luxiders Magazine

The fashion industry is not used to working with dark skin tones: they are neither prepared to style afro hair nor have they the right makeup—this on the surface; on a deeper level, the mistreatment that many Black models receive due to their skin colour is more distressing. The preference for white beauty standards make models feel that they can’t shine as bright as they could—even icon Naomi Campbell has infinite stories of racial offense.

Acknowledging these disparities in light of the Black Lives Matter movement, Luxiders produced a beauty editorial featuring model Nyawargak Gatluak, who has shared with us how her skin reminds her of her roots, her ancestors, and more important, how it reenacts to that primal feeling that represents love. Watch here the short interview, and find the editorial A letter to the Black Community. Sorry. in our most recent issue.

CREDITS

Original Idea LUXIDERS MAGAZINE
Photography KERSTIN JACOBSEN
Styling RAINER METZ
Model LUCY @ VIVAMODELS
Hair and MakeUp MIRJAM MARTINO
Retouch JO NEANDER
Words BELVIS SOLER
Special Thanks AMAZINGLY & LESS IS MORE

ECO-FRIENDLY HAIR CARE

The movement towards sustainability is spreading. From food to fashion, people are making changes. This is also the case for hair care. The market for eco-friendly hair products is on the rise. People are beginning to ask whether their products are cruelty-free, made from natural ingredients and environmentally friendly.

WHAT ARE SHAMPOO BARS? 

Shampoo bars are made from solid, concentrated shampoo and they look like bars of soap. These bars are usually made from natural ingredients such as essential oils and botanical extracts. This means that they are free from harsh chemicals that are often in conventional hair care products. Even though they are in a different shape, shampoo bars work just like traditional shampoos, you use them in the same way and they produce the same results.

ARE SHAMPOO BARS SUSTAINABLE?

There are many reasons why shampoo bars are the top sustainable choice for your hair. Most are produced with sustainably sourced ingredients and eco-friendly manufacturing processes that consume less water and energy. Natural ingredients are also better for your hair and skin. 

A single bar can last as long as two to three bottles of liquid shampoo, leading to fewer purchases and less waste over time. 

They are also friends with the environment. Unlike liquid shampoos, which come in plastic bottles, shampoo bars are normally packaged in minimal, biodegradable, or recyclable materials. This means they produce a lot less plastic waste. Their compact size also means they have a smaller carbon footprint in terms of transportation and storage.

GOOD SHAMPOO BARS TO BUY

Finding the right shampoo bar for your hair can be difficult. Just like with ordinary shampoos, some are better suited for certain hair types and styles. It is also important to note that, just because the general idea of shampoo bars is eco-friendly it doesn’t mean they all are. Here are a few brands selling shampoo bars that have great reviews and also love the planet.

Package Free offers clean, low-waste products that are kind to you and the planet. Their shampoo bars feature minimal, natural ingredients—usually five or fewer. 100% of their packaging is recyclable and often compostable.

Since 2018, Seek Bamboo has helped over 50,000 people ditch plastic. Their bamboo-based products, including shampoo bars, are eco-friendly and effective. They are building a movement for a better future.

Foamie is all about eco-friendly hair care. Their shampoo bars are vegan, plastic-free, and gentle on your hair and scalp. Easy to use and kind to the planet, Foamie makes sustainable living simple. Try their innovative products for a greener routine.

+Highlight Image: ©Sincerely Media Via Unsplash

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

Alternative medicine has existed for thousands of years and is the predecessor to modern medicine as we know it. It encompasses a diverse range of healing practices that exist outside the realm of conventional Western medicine. Many of these methods are rooted in ancient traditions, with popular philosophical systems including Chinese Medicine, Shamanism and Homeopathy. These therapies emphasise restoring balance within the body, working to enhance your overall being. By focusing on the harmony between mind, body, and spirit, alternative medicine offers a holistic approach to health. This approach continues to attract people seeking natural and complementary ways to achieve wellness.

The wellness industry is thriving, with innovations and traditional methods flourishing.  Alternative medicine is experiencing a strong comeback and is increasingly being used alongside Western medicine to provide a complementary approach to healing. This integrative strategy enables patients to benefit from the strengths of both systems. Here are some traditional alternative healing methods to explore.

ACUPUNCTURE

Acupuncture is the action of placing thin needles into the skin on certain points of your body. It is a practice of traditional Chinese medicine aimed at improving the flow of blocked energy known as qi (pronounced chi). Acupuncturists believe that when your qi is blocked or unbalanced, diseases can occur. There are over 2000 acupuncture points in the body which stimulate the central nervous system, releasing chemicals into the spinal cord, brain and muscles, stimulating the body’s natural healing abilities. The practice is used to treat a range of issues including digestive issues, emotional problems, gynaecological, neurological, respiratory and more.

CUPPING

This ancient form of therapy dates back to ancient Egyptian, Chinese and Middle Eastern cultures. Originally used for purposes such as sucking the venom out of snake bites, cupping is the practice of placing suction cups on the body to draw blood to/away from body parts. Therapists will place special cups on your skin for a few minutes to create suction that helps to relieve pain and inflammation and creates a relaxing sensation and a deep-tissue massage. Traditionally the healer would place a flammable substance inside the cup and when the air cools suction is created, however, today a pump is normally used instead.

Cupping is used to treat blood disorders, skin problems, back pain, varicose veins, migraines and much more.

REIKI

The word Reiki comes from the Japanese words ‘Rei’ (universal) and ‘Ki’ (energy). It is the practice of healing through energy therapy. Practitioners help the flow of energy by holding their hands lightly on or over parts of the body. Some also use crystals for chakra healing wands. According to practitioners, energy can be stagnant in the body where there has been emotional pain or a physical injury. The aim is to help the flow of energy by removing blocks and enabling deep relaxation. Reiki is used to relieve pain, spread healing processes and reduce symptoms of illnesses. Although clinical research hasn’t proven its effectiveness, many people speak about the positive outcomes they have experienced thanks to Reiki therapy.

AROMATHERAPY

Aromatherapy works through skin absorption and the sense of smell. Essential oils are used to enhance the patient’s physical and emotional health. These oils can come in the form of diffusers, bathing salts, masks, body creams, and much more. The practice has been used for thousands of years, with ancient cultures incorporating aromatic plant components into balms, oils and resins for healing purposes. The therapy can help manage pain, boost relaxation, ease digestion, and boost immunity. Popular aromatherapy oils include fennel, eucalyptus, ginger, lavender, tea tree and more.

+Highlight Image: ©Content Pixie via Unsplash

ORIGINS OF THE TREND 

Heroin chic emerged in the early 1990s. The trend is characterised by pale skin, dark under-eye circles, and emaciated, androgynous features. These traits mirror those of someone with drug use. The trend emerged at the same time as changes in the heroin market. Decreased prices, increased purity and a shift to snorting (reducing AIDS concerns), reduced stigma and led to a glorification of drug use.

During the 1990s pop culture became home to the heroin chic aesthetic. Films such as The Basketball Diaries, Trainspotting, and Pulp Fiction depicted heroin use and grunge musicians brought attention to its usage by openly referencing their struggles with the drug. These cultural elements reinforced the trend within mainstream media, shaping public consciousness about the drug and its associated lifestyle.

WHO WAS HEROIN CHIC?

Iconic figures of the heroin chic movement include supermodels Kate Moss and Gia Carangi. Kate Moss’ thin, grunge appearance, paired with her rebellious reputation, solidified her as an icon of heroin chic. Campaigns with Clavin Klein highlighting her young, thin, and pale features emphasised this. Gia Carangi, often considered one of the world’s first supermodels, is also associated with the origins of heroin chic. Carangi’s career and struggle with drug abuse highlighted the darker side of the fashion industry, and she died of AIDS-related complications at only 26. 

Italian photographer Davide Sorrenti is remembered for his role in the rise and fall of the heroin chic movement. Sorrenti was part of a famous family of fashion photographers, and his personal style embodied the heroin chic movement. The photographer shot to fame at a young age but struggled with a heroin addiction and died at the age of 21. After his death, his mother started a campaign against the movement, fighting against the glamorisation of drug addiction and underage models. At his funeral, editor Ingrid Sischy coined the term. 

“This is heroin, this isn’t chic. This has got to stop, this heroin chic.” – Ingrid Sischy.

After the death of Davide Sorrenti, which was misreported as a heroin overdose, the trend of heroin chic came to a crashing halt.

WHY IS IT PROBLEMATIC?

Heroin chic is a problematic trend for many reasons. The trend glamorises drug addiction and unhealthy lifestyles, presenting them as desirable and fashionable. Given the fashion industry’s influence on society, this can lead to the normalisation of dangerous behaviours. This negative influence can leave impressions on young people that can result in severe unwellness and death. The trend’s focus on extreme thinness also promotes an unhealthy body image. Portraying such bodies as desirable can contribute to body dysmorphia, eating disorders, and other mental health issues. 

Heroin chic also trivialises the seriousness of drug abuse. The real-life suffering of drug addicts is overlooked when it becomes a popular trend. The fashion industry’s endorsement of this aesthetic reflects and reinforces harmful societal standards, making it a deeply problematic trend.

Many people have spoken out about the dangers of the trend. In 1997, then-President Bill Clinton criticised the glorification of heroin and denounced its presentation as a form of art. Other public figures, such as the designer Calvin Klein, have since denounced the trend.

IS HEROIN CHIC BACK?

But is heroin chic making a comeback? Despite the growth of the body positivity movement, hyper-skinny physiques are regaining popularity. In 2022, the New York Post released an article titled “Bye-bye booty: Heroin chic is back”. The article explains the decline of curvy physics and the resurgence of skinny models. It has since received a lot of criticism from activists and celebrities stating that bodies are not trends. 

Despite this backlash, the trend has been seeing some resurgence, particularly on social media platforms like TikTok. #Heroinchic is trending and the sad girl aesthetic is booming. Users have noticed a growing number of posts and content that glorifies extremely thin bodies, reminiscent of the heroin chic era. This has sparked debates about the negative impacts on body image and mental health among the platform’s young audiences. 

The renewed interest in the Heroin Chic aesthetic highlights ongoing challenges in the fashion and beauty industries regarding body standards and the portrayal of healthy body images.

+ Highlight Image: ©Christopher Campbell via Unsplash